The French parliament has established fines and advertising bans for environmentally irresponsible companies, primarily Asian e-commerce companies Shein, Temu, and AliExpress, while also seeking to protect the French textile industry. According to Le Monde, influencers who promote fast fashion are also targeted.
The approved bill aims to curb the growth of fast fashion and was first introduced two and a half years ago. French lawmakers intend to regulate so-called “ultra-fast fashion” companies, known for selling large volumes of low-quality clothing at very low prices. Textile industry pollution is responsible for almost 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.
The Senate approved the bill a week after the National Assembly did the same. The law imposes a per-item tax on the mass production of textiles, which will increase over time, and prohibits advertising by ultra-fast fashion brands, including influencers and social media.
According to the Minister of Commerce, Serge Papin, the bill targets the main players, including three companies that, according to Papin, are driving the growth of ultra-fast fashion. “Their names, which were still unknown three years ago (…) are now on everyone’s lips in France: Temu, Shein, and AliExpress,” he concluded.
The law focuses on Asian platforms but spares European and French companies like Zara and Kiabi. This led some left-wing MPs from both chambers to abstain during the vote. Charles Fournier, a Green Party MP, said the original bill had been “considerably reduced,” explaining that brands like Zara and H&M “have not become models of sustainable fashion.”
The same view has been defended by the Stop Fast Fashion coalition, which criticized what it called a “very diluted” version compared to the original proposal.
Center-right MP Anne-Cécile Violland, proponent of the bill, defended the need for legislation that could be passed “very quickly and come into effect.” Violland stated that she understands the disappointment. “We are being very strict with Shein, and this is the first step,” she told Agence France-Presse (AFP).
The legislation takes into account the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing the items in relation to their purchase price. The fee per item will vary according to each brand’s score on the two criteria. The maximum limit is €20 (US$23) per item until 2030, not exceeding 50% of the product’s price before taxes. Part of the penalties will be invested in collection and recycling infrastructure.
Fast-fashion companies will be legally required to display messages on their websites promoting more moderate consumption, including the reuse and repair of clothing.
The draft law prohibits advertising, including by influencers, but doubts remain about its application. The European Commission wants to ensure that the draft law’s provisions on advertising comply with EU law.
In response to questions raised by the European Commission, the French government argued that it is based on principles similar to those underpinning regulations on alcohol or cigarette advertising, said Violland. For France to implement the measure, it is imperative that the European Commission agrees with the French position.
